Fuse Box - Permanent Live

[abby606]

Cool thanks Silver Moose

[Silver Moose]

Still haven't got round to this (car still getting fixed), does the fuse box cover go back on OK or is it a squeeze? Sorry if it's been mentioned, my reading comprehension isn't the best at times!

Just thought of something else I should have mentioned in my previous reply (hadn't noticed you said you have active suspension).

When you take off the lid, on the left hand side, covered by foam, is the post for the incoming +ve feed. You could connect to this with a spade connector + in-line fuse if you can't find an alternative fuse where you can shut the lid.

[abby606]

When you take off the lid, on the left hand side, covered by foam, is the post for the incoming +ve feed. You could connect to this with a spade connector + in-line fuse if you can't find an alternative fuse where you can shut the lid.

Thanks that's useful to know, I have a box of different sized connectors knocking about somewhere! Good excuse to whip out my crimp tool

[drewy]

I found this post extremely helpful. Does someone know the make or model of the covered fuse box on top of page three? I would like option of accessory power and continuous power for up to 3 devices to install. This model looks like it would work. I am coming across bulk marine type boxes so far.

[Karlsm]

Well, gotta hand a massive thanks to Wedgie for doing the ground work on this - the way some stuff goes live as soon as you open the door & some circuits have delayed off after locking doors, it couldn't have been an easy task.

So glad that the 12 & 86 were both unused on my car as, just as I suspected, the correct orientation on this fusebox for piggy-backs is with the tail pointing upwards & there simply isn't the space. I just put two fuses in the piggy-backs (20A bottom, 5A top & all was good)

I wonder can you clarify something for me as this topic has been very helpful.

When you say you put 20A bottom and 5A top, these are the slots i have unused also in my fuse box, (slot 86 and 12) did you put a 20A and 5A fuse in the corresponding piggybacks? Is this what you mean? or can you use lower Amp fuse for the bottom slot other than 20A

[Wedgie]

The current to each slot is the same you can put in whatever amp fuse you like, it is the appliance being protected that determines the fuse size not the slot in the fuse box so just use the fuse size recommended.

[Karlsm]

The current to each slot is the same you can put in whatever amp fuse you like, it is the appliance being protected that determines the fuse size not the slot in the fuse box so just use the fuse size recommended.

Thanks for the reply mate. Just so I’m on the same page as you and before I attempt this on Saturday

1. Can I orientate the piggyback the way you have in your pic on the previous page and this will work fine? I’m just connecting power magic pro and 2ch dash cam nothing else, even though the right way is the piggyback tail pointing up (this will be problematic for the lid closing) is your setup still like this?

2. So piggyback top is 5A in slot 86 temp live and piggyback bottom on slot 12 permanent live, I can use this slot (12) with a 5A also?

Am I on the right track?

[Wedgie]

Yes yes and yes

[Deleted User 3359]

@Karlsm. I am very concerned that you are asking less than basic questions about wiring in something into your car. Although you won't kill yourself, the problem with 12V is that because of the lower voltage, currents are higher to power a device than with a mains powered device. Because the current is higher, the effects of mistakes can result in heating of cabling, melting of insulation, and even fires. I have done a lot of 12V work on boats, and even with experience have had insulation melt and smoke, and in one case where the cable was touching the oil pressure gauge pipe resulted in a siignificant oil leak where the pipe also melted through!

[K9plus1]

Would something like this take the hassle out of routing to the fuse box?



plugs into OBD port and piggy backs on the power there.